Day 6: Dalmatian Coast - Split, Salona, and Trogir

Before the sunrise, the car was loaded onto a large ferry at the Stari Grad ferry port on Hvar island. Sleepy passengers slept or chatted in the indoor area of the ferry. The outside temperature was chilly and windy, and I took some photographs of the scenery we went past from the top open deck of the ferry. I watched a few other early cruise ships make their way to the city of Split. We sailed past several other islands. The early ferry was due to arrive in Split at 8:00 in the morning, which would provide us ample time to find a parking space and see the city.

The sun rises across the Adriatic Sea, from the top deck of the ferry on the way to Split from Hvar

After finding a parking place, we walked into the newer area of Split, along the harbour. (Split is famous for the remains of its Palace of Emperor Diocletian, and it is a popular stop for tourists and cruise ships.) The emperor was from the nearby ancient settlement Salona, but he had the palace built by the sea. Outside the old city walls is a fish market, and this was heaving with locals just after 8:00 in the morning. Sellers and buyers negotiated on the prices of the fish and other sea creatures, and some of the fish and eel were being cut or weighed. I actually found the fish market to be the most fascinating sight in Split.

Prawns and skinned eel or fish for sale at the fish market in Split

Fish for sale in the Split fish market

Eels for sale in Split

Common fish for sale in Split

A seller chops up these fish at the market in Split

A seller puts skinned fish on display

A group if different types of fish are for sale at the fish market

A buyer picks out the fish he wants to buy at Split's fish market

After leaving the fish market, I ventured into the old city and out the other side through one of the old city gates. In this area is a massive market selling fruits and vegetables, lavender, honey, flowers, and many other items. I bought some strawberries, and they tasted delicious. The flowers were also beautiful. I enjoyed this market and found it fascinating.

Fresh strawberries

Stands set up selling a variety of goods, including honey, at the market in Split

Flowers for sale at the market in Split

Flowers for sale at the market in Split

Vegetables

Vegetables

After doing some shopping (there are many shops selling Split and Croatian merchandise), it was 9:00 in the morning. The remains of Diocletian's Palace (basement area) were open, and I spent some time wandering around the dark rooms and reading the signs along the way. There had just been a flower show in the palace, so there were many piled of flowers laying around the rooms. Many of the displays had already been taken down, sadly, but I managed to capture most of a display in the area that the emperor would have had his throne (according to the sign-age).

Diocletian's Palace in Split; flowers are leftover from a flower display that took place the day before

A cat chills out at Diocletian's Palace in Split

I found much of the area around the palace and outside the city walls to look a little run-down, and I was glad to have booked the hotel in Trogir for the night, instead of staying longer in Split. Split is okay to visit, and it is worth seeing the palace, but I felt that it lacked the character of some of the other Croatian cities I had visited. The 'soul' of the city seemed to be focused heavily on the tourist industry, although the markets reflected more of a genuine feeling for a place that seemed to be conflicting in its identity.

A quick trip up the cathedral's bell tower, inside the cathedral, and inside the baptistery was made. I also visited the city's museum and spent a little bit of time looking around the city. (For me, the city was much too busy with tourists, but I was glad that I had arrived earlier and before the crowds from the cruise ships arrived. Before the crowds descended, the city was relatively quiet.)

A house in the walled city of Split

This gargoyle decoration is near the baptistery in Split

After leaving Split, a short car journey took us inland to the remains of the ancient city of Salona. (Sign-age to Salona was rare.) I arrived at the hottest time in the day, already feeling thirsty from wandering around Split, but a small pub is near the entrance of the ruins, and I managed to have a drink before getting more hot and thirsty amongst the open ruins. Bits of the city seem to be well-preserved, such as the tombs and some of the old walls and infrastructure. The amphitheatre was also amazing, and much of it has been reconstructed.

A decorated tomb in Salona

Many poppies grow amongst the ruins of ancient Salona

The tomb on the road just outside or near the old city walls was from the necropolis. The dead could not be buried within the city walls

From Salona, the UNESCO world heritage site of the city of Trogir was only a thirty-minute car drive away. Trogir is surrounded by water, and there are two bridges that join it to the land. Trogir has a large cathedral, harbour, and many narrow cobbled alleyways. I arrived in the afternoon, and the city was quite quiet, with the largest group of tourists near the cathedral.

The cathedral has a bell tower with nice views over the town. My favourite aspect of the cathedral, however, is the main doorway, which is covered in sculpture and designed by Croatian artist Master Radovan. The detail of this doorway is beautiful. After visiting the cathedral and having a quick walk around the old town and harbour, I visited Fortress Kamerlengo. The fortress is mainly a walled shell and used for events, but the walls can be walked around, and one can climb on the top tower for nice views over the harbour. (The stairways to the top can be easily missed, so make sure you look around the main tower.)

The day winded down with a nice meal on the harbour, followed by an ice cream sundae at a small ice cream and desserts parlour near the gate and bridge on the harbour.